Bemberg Estate Wines is the luxury winery and portfolio of the Bemberg family in Argentina, focused on single terroir wines from around their best estates in Argentina. The winery is in Gualtallary in the Uco Valley.
About Bemberg Estate Wines
Bemberg Estate Wines is the luxury winery and portfolio of the Bemberg family in Argentina, focused on single terroir wines from around their best estates in Argentina. The winery is in Gualtallary in the Uco Valley.
When the Bemberg family bought the Peñaflor group of wineries in 2011, winemaker Daniel Pi began making a few wines especially for the family. From their 3,500 hectares of vineyards around the country, Pi would select the very best plots to make a handful of vinous gems. It is still this concept that is at the heart of this fine wine endeavour — showcasing their most distinctive vineyards and terroir expressions.
The stunning boutique winery is set within their estate in Gualtallary, but a taste through Bemberg is a terroir tour of Argentina: four Malbecs from Gualtallary, La Consulta, Pedernal and Chañar Punco; Cabernet Sauvignon from Cafayate; and a Chardonnay and a very classy Bordeaux-blend from Gualtallary. These Bemberg wines are the crème de la crème of one of Argentina’s leading wine families.
Terrazas de los Andes was a pioneer of Gualtallary. Although the region has gone on to become one of the most famed of Mendoza’s Uco Valley, when winemaker Hervé Birnie-Scott first planted here in 1993 everyone called him the ‘loco Francés’ for planting at such altitudes and in such a cool climate. The rest is, of course, history and Terrazas de los Andes’ original Caicayén vineyard (planted at 1,200 m.a.s.l..) is now surrounded by renowned vineyards as Gualtallary has stepped into the limelight as one of the top terroirs of the Uco Valley.
However, the exploration of the Terrazas de los Andes team doesn’t stop there. In the last decade, Hervé Birnie-Scott has accrued many high altitude vineyards for the winery in order to show the different altitudes – or Terrazas – of the Andes. One of the most extreme is their El Espinillo vineyard, planted at 1,650 m.a.s.l.. and now the highest vineyard in Gualtallary.
As winemaker Marcos Fernandez and Hervé explain in this video, this is a unique place with a very distinctive cool climate Malbec expression. “Some vintages we are Winkler I here,” explains Marcos, “we are at the very limit of ripening Malbec. But the Malbec we get is incredible because it really expresses the mountain terroir and place: with notes of wild thyme and herbs.”
The wines certainly do express a unique mountain climate, and I was lucky enough to get to do a vertical tasting with Hervé and Marcos from 2017 until 2021:
I’d more likely assume this is a cool climate Northern Rhone Syrah than a Mendoza Malbec in a blind tasting… with a dark graphite note, meatiness, mountain herbs and dark fresh black fruit notes, it shows great complexity aromatically but has lovely freshness and finesse to the palate. Showing really nicely and boldly presenting itself as a cool climate Malbec with some structure from oak ageing.
This vintage also shows some of the same inkiness of 2017 but is more driven by dark fruit and some spice. There’s good length to the finish and that trademark fresh acidity with notes of wild thyme on the end. 2018 is often seen as one of the top vintages of Mendoza, and this shows good potential with balanced freshness too.
In this vintage we begin to see a shift in winemaking, pushing away from new oak in favour of more neutral oak. And the fruit of the wine sings for this reason – with fresh cassis fruit and a juicy, crunchy finish. There’s a touch of white pepper in the nose and that trademark mountain freshness with some herbal lift.
Although this was a warmer vintage with warmer notes of plum creeping through, this is very much a vintage that shows how the Terrazas de los Andes approach to El Espinillo has shifted. Moving towards early harvests when the grapes are ‘al dente’ and with a gentle approach in the cellar, this is fragrant and bright. “In 2020 I think we see a good dialogue between Malbec and the place”, adds Hervé.
Spoiler alert… I only tasted samples from the winery for the potential blend, but it seems as though Terrazas de los Andes will be leaning into the fresher mountain expression of El Espinillo and I’m very excited to see this vintage come to light. Watch this space!
If Gualtallary isn’t already the most famous sub-region of Argentina, it probably soon will be. Some of Argentina’s most expensive and idolised wines come from the Gualtallary wine region, which is quite remarkable considering that there were barely any vines here 30 years ago.
Previously considered too cold and too steep, the first vines were planted in Gualtallary in 1992 by Chandon, which was looking for cool temperatures to make better sparkling wine. In the early and mid-90s other producers also came to the region in search of making fresher white wines too, including Catena Zapata, Doña Paula and Sophenia.
Several of these early plantings were successful in making fresher wines and proving the potential of this new high-altitude region. One of the key winemakers who championed Gualtallary in these early years was Matías Michelini, who was fundamental in the development of Gualtallary portfolios for Doña Paula, Sophenia and Zorzal. Matías quickly earned the nickname ‘green Michelini’ because he started harvesting up to a month earlier than everyone else in a search for freshness and acidity.
As soon as producers moved away from the overripe grapes that were the norm during this period, you could suddenly appreciate the star-bright acidity and chalky texture of both the white and red wines from Gualtallary. Matías Michelini’s early Sauvignon Blanc vintages at Sophenia became some of Argentina’s most promising white wines, and helped put Gualtallary on the map for its potential for making radically different styles of wines in Argentina. Today Matías is no longer considered green, as most other wineries have also brought forward their harvesting dates; and Gualtallary has become renowned for making some of the best white wines in Argentina.
It is actually Chardonnay which I would argue is the star white wine of Gualtallary today. One of the early pioneers of the region, Catena Zapata, has been fundamental in showing the star quality of this variety here — making wines with verve and tension.
Benmarco Expresivo Malbec (85%) and Cabernet Franc (15%) blend from Susana Balbo Wines is an exotic wine with a complex nose of cassis, black pepper and cardamom. It is lively, fresh and incredibly long, and shows the more feminine side to Gualtallary, while still delivering the remarkable trademark minerality in the finish.
The BenMarco wines are a special range dedicated to the viticulturist, conceived from the vineyard to express the purity of every terroir with non-intervention winemaking. The focus is on picking at the optimal moment, using natural yeast for fermentation when possible, avoiding acidity adjustments, and racking into second- and third-use barrels.
Susana Balbo Wines is the family winery of winemaker Susana Balbo and was established in 1999. It is located in Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza and the winery is run by Susana, her two children José and Ana, and one of Argentina’s top viticulturists, Edy del Popolo.
The winery’s philosophy is to focus on sustainability, with a strong commitment to the environment and local community; terroir knowledge, by reflecting some of Argentina’s best wine terroirs in their wines; and winemaking skills, drawing on the team’s extensive experience.
Learn more about Susana Balbo Wines.