This terroir wine project is all about hunting down unique soils and climates for certain varieties, and in this case it is Pinot Noir on sandstone with calcarious deposits. This complex Pinot has earthy aromas of talc and graphite with fresh red fruit and spice, and a saline, mineral finish — hinting at its proximity to the coast.
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In our guide to Riesling in South America we look at the best wines in Chile, Argentina, Uruguay and Brazil, as well as offering an insight into Riesling plantings and the best wine regions for this complex white grape variety. Riesling was first planted in South America back in the late-19th century and, although it is still niche, it has grown in popularity since, both as a single varietal and in old vine field blends. As we get ready to celebrate Riesling Day on 13th March, we thought it was high time to raise a glass to South American Riesling!
Pale lemon colour. Aromas of white blossom, citrus zest & petrol. Dry with searing (high) acidity and medium body.
South American Riesling is usually vinified in stainless steel with little or no skin contact, and unoaked or aged in old, neutral oak barrels. It is usually monovarietal and alcohol is normally 13% – 13.5%. Although there are some interesting old vine field blends being made (sometimes with skin contact as orange wines) and it is also being deployed in the new wave of white wine blends.
Riesling was supposedly first brought to Chile by Isadora Cousiño in the 19th century and, as a result, there are many old Riesling vines hidden in field blends in the traditional valley floor wine regions. Many of these locations are today too hot to make great wines, but the old vines in Itata seem to prove the exception to the rule. However, it’s the new Riesling vines I’m most excited about, as winemakers are taking this fickle variety to new terrains where it can really come into its own.
There are some excellent coastal Riesling wines coming from San Antonio, and Leyda and Lo Abarca in particular, which have a zesty character. Another exciting new terrain for Riesling is in Chile’s southern region of Bio Bio, Malleco and Osorno where cooler temperatures produce a more mineral Riesling with searing acidity. One of my favourite Chilean Rieslings is in fact a mountain Riesling — so far the only one — from high altitude Colchagua: the racy, austere Riesling of Sierras de Bellavista.
Riesling may be a historic variety for Chile, but it’s being given a new lease of life as winemakers take it to new cool-climate frontiers.
Sierras de Bellavista, Leyda, Casa Marín, Cono Sur, Matetic, Clos de Fous, Casa Silva Lago Ranco, Fatto a Mano, Rogue Vine