Author

Clorrie Yeomans

Clorrie is a languages graduate who spent a year living in Mendoza, Argentina, learning the language of wine! She enjoys trying weird and wonderful local cuisines from around the world and travelling off the beaten path.

Photo credits Don Miguel Gascon. History of Argentine wine, guide to the history of winemaking in Argentina and wine production

A journey through Argentine wine history

by Clorrie Yeomans September 12, 2019

written by Clorrie Yeomans

You may be a Malbec lover, but do you know about the history of Argentine wine? Argentinean wines have only just started to be noticed on the international winemaking scene around 20 years ago with the ‘Malbec Boom’. However, the term ‘New World’ can be quite deceiving. Argentina actually has a long history of winemaking which stretches all of the way back to the sixteenth century! Here’s our guide to Argentina wine history and how this South American country became one of the world’s biggest wine producers.

The deeply-rooted wine culture in Argentina

As one of the biggest wine producers in the world, Argentina has a rich wine culture and significant wine consumption domestically. In fact, the only city which drinks more wine in the world than Buenos Aires is Paris.

Argentina’s wine history goes back to the early colonial period, when the first vines were brought over to Argentina from the Old World by the Spanish conquistadors who needed to produce wine for Mass.

The first cuttings are believed to have been planted in Argentina in 1556, by Father Cedrón who brought over cuttings from the Chilean Central Valley to San Juan and Mendoza. Although the first plantings were small, by the end of the sixteenth century, there were vineyards scattered throughout Argentina and planted in each region that the Spanish settled – from east to west and north to south.

Over these first two centuries of grape growing, growers naturally gravitated to the Cuyo region due to the high altitude and favourable semi-arid climate conditions with plenty of water access for irrigation. There were 120 vineyards in Mendoza alone by 1739 according to a census.

Argentine wine history: The Criolla and colonial period

The Jesuit missionaries brought cuttings mainly from Spain’s Canary Islands. These early varieties on the continent soon bred native varieties, which led to a big family of Criolla varieties (read about Criolla grape varieties on this article).

Criolla grapes continued to be the most important varietals in Argentina for the next 300 years. They produced a very high yield of grapes which kept growers happy in terms of producing a large quantity. However, the high yielding vines meant that the grapes had a lower colour and flavour intensity – arguably making lesser quality wines.

Argentina wine history during the 19th & 20th centuries: the influence of European immigration

Wine production remained completely artisanal in Argentina for almost three centuries after the Spanish missionaries planted the first vines. The first industrial wineries were founded in the early 19th century following independence but were limited to a certain extent by civil wars in Argentina from 1814 to 1880 which had significantly hindered the winemaking industry’s development.

The winemaking boom in Argentina

Progress was stagnant until the arrival of European immigrants during the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century catalysed the winemaking boom. The outbreak of phylloxera which destroyed vineyards throughout the European continent during the latter half of the nineteenth century, as well as the political stability around the outbreak of WW1, were the major push factors which drove European immigrants to try their luck in the New World.

These immigrants mainly came from winemaking countries (notably Spain, Italy and France) and so they used their know-how to develop the Argentine winemaking industry. They also brought over new technologies and set up workshops to repair winemaking machinery.

Indeed, there are many cases of European immigrants from winemaking regions, such as the Italians Juan Giol and Felipe Rutini, who came from humble backgrounds and managed to establish their own wineries in Mendoza. Many European immigrants at the time went on to become influential figures in Mendoza and in Argentina’s wine industry, and in the 19th century, the modern winemaking industry in Argentina was born.

The Founding Father of Malbec in Argentina, Michel Aimé Pouget

Perhaps the most famous European to have impacted the Argentinean winemaking industry is the French agricultural engineer Michel Aimé Pouget. It all began when the Governor of the Cuyo region (who would later become the President of Argentina), Domingo Faustino Sarmiento, sent a proposal to the national Argentinean government to develop and expand the winemaking industry. Pouget was hired as a viticulture specialist and this important event is celebrated every year with what is now known as World Malbec Day.

Pouget founded the first agricultural school and vine nursery in Argentina in Mendoza and he introduced French grape varieties including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Malbec. These grapes adapted very well to the terroir and produced wines of more concentration and better quality wine than the Criolla varieties.

Malbec, or la uva francesa as it was known, began to grow significantly in number and importance in Argentina, and Argentina’s vine gene pool grew increasingly diverse throughout the late 19th century and early 20th century with many varieties from all over Europe.

Argentina wine history & the development of the railway

A major factor which facilitated the development of the Argentinean winemaking industry was the arrival of the Transandine Railway in Mendoza in 1885. The railway allowed wines to be exported from Mendoza to the greater market of Buenos Aires. Before the train line, it would take close to a month for mules to carry wine in barrels across the country. The same journey by train took just a day. The much bigger demand led to a much greater supply and vineyards were planted at a rapid rate.

It also triggered the phenomenon of urbanisation as an influx of immigrant workers and their families settled in the rural winemaking regions. Wineries started to pop up alongside the tracks and from 1880 to 1900, planted vineyard hectarage grew by more than fivefold.

The industry was stinted during the crisis of the 1930s, but towards the latter half of the 20th-century consumption was once again on the rise – and Argentina hit its heyday of wine production and consumption in the 1970s.

Land under vine had doubled between 1950 and 1970 and Argentina’s wine industry hit its peak in production in 1977 with 350,680 hectares of vines planted. Wine consumption was also at an all-time high at 92 litres per capita in 1970.

However, at the beginning of the 80s, crisis struck the wine industry again. The dirty war was in full swing and a combination of social and economic crises had a knock-on impact on the wine industry which had become embroiled in corruption, competition and dodgy deals.

When one of Mendoza’s biggest wine magnates and bank owners, Héctor Greco, went under, most of the industry collapsed with him and his fortunes. Grape prices and wine prices dropped by 80% between 1979 and 1982. There was a glut of cheap table wine left in the wineries, and no affluent market left to buy it (by 1980 consumption was down to 76 litres per capita, a downward trend that would continue until today with just 18 litres consumed on average in 2019).

Wine consumption in Argentina from 1960s until 2018. Guide to history of Argentine wine and Latin American wine — Wine consumption in Argentina from 1960s until today. Source: INV

Few wineries were left unscathed by the crisis. With a shrinking domestic market, the wine industry had to change tactics and from the 90s onwards there was a new focus on exporting wines. Which in turn meant making wines of export quality.

Modern Argentine wine history: The 1990s to early 2000s & exports of high-quality wines

Until the end of the 20th century, Argentinean wineries produced large quantities of low-quality wines destined for the domestic market. Winemakers understood that it was not worth investing in the time and equipment to produce top-quality wines because high-end consumers preferred imported fine wines and the majority of domestic consumption was of table wines. Argentina remained within the top 10 wine producers in the world throughout the twentieth century. However, very few bottles made it overseas.

Facing a diminished domestic market, however, meant that Argentina’s wine industry had to adapt in order to survive. The Argentineans started to take some tricks from the winemaking books of their neighbours.

The Chileans had begun to tailor their wines to the export market much earlier on. Chile never had a domestic market the size of Argentina, and yet it had grown in wine production over the past decades to become an important producer and exporter. Part of that success was due to Chilean wineries contracting international winemakers to modernise the Chilean wine industry with their techniques and expertise.

Open borders, open minds: An international outlook for Argentina

Argentina started to follow in Chile’s footsteps in looking outwards to the wine world in the 1990s during the period of Neoliberalism during the presidency of Carlos Menem. He attached the value of the peso to the dollar and introduced free trade which allowed the Argentinean industry to develop.

In 2001, Argentina faced another life-changing crisis. The value of the peso shot down against the dollar and although that was negative for the Argentine economy, it made Argentine wines much more competitive on the export market.

By the mid-90s Argentina had a handful of international and flying winemakers advising its wineries and helping improve the standards of Argentine wine across the board. Notable examples include Nicolás Catena hiring US-born winemaker Paul Hobbs to transform his production of Chardonnay; and Arnaldo Etchart in Salta bringing Bordeaux-based wine consultant Michel Rolland to improve his red wines in Cafayate.

The influx of foreign knowledge and experience led to an influx in investment in new technology including stainless steel tanks and French oak barrels, as well as a different approach to viticulture – favouring concentration and maturity of grapes, over yield and productivity.

Malbec booms and so does wine tourism

Although Malbec plantations had actually been in decline a couple decades before, during the late 90s and early 2000s Argentina’s Malbec started to be loved and appreciated by the international market. It soon became Argentina’s most exported wine and increased demand for Argentine wine, increasing exports of Argentine wine from 55,000 hectolitres in 1990 to 492,000 hectolitres in 2000, according to the INV.

In a relatively short time, Argentina had changed its image and production from a bulk producer of low-quality wines for an undemanding domestic market to a producer of highly sought-after export quality wines.

The wine tourism boom & future generations of Argentine wine lovers

Wineries in Argentina, and largely Mendoza, saw a glimmering opportunity to start to offer wine tourism as more people travelled through since the 2000s. Today Mendoza is a major wine capital in the world, and wine tourism is a significant part of the business model for most wineries in Mendoza and has allowed for the development of dozens of hotels and restaurants.

Mendoza’s wineries received over 1.1 million visitors in 2018, 36% of whom were foreigners. Four in every 10 wine tourists are Brazilian (which is one of Argentina’s most important export markets), followed by North American and English visitors.

Wine tourism has not only become important in terms of selling wine on the cellar door but more importantly the experiences visitors have in Argentine wine country are fondly remembered for life and drive consumption in their own country throughout the year.

Argentina created a very strong brand for itself thanks to its world-renowned Malbec wine, but the opportunity of tasting Argentine wine in situ is also opening people’s eyes to the many different terroirs and grape varieties of Argentina today.

Italian-Argentinean culture: that’s amore!

by Clorrie Yeomans August 23, 2019

written by Clorrie Yeomans

There’s no other South American country that is quite so… Italian. Clorrie Yeomans explores the Italian connection in Argentina, and discovers how Italian culture has influenced the language, cuisine and customs of Argentina.

If you have been to Argentina, then you might have wondered, ‘Why do Argentineans eat so much pizza and pasta?’ Or ‘Why are there so many Argentinean words which don’t exist in standard Spanish?’ Argentina is commonly considered to be the most European country in Latin America, due to mass immigration during the late 19th and 20th century. However, there is a common preconception that Argentinean culture is primarily influenced by Spanish culture. In reality, if you visit Argentina, then you will notice that there is a huge Italian influence which has enriched their national identity.

Italian culture at the heart of Argentinidad

These Italian immigrants integrated into the heart of Argentinean society. In fact, in Buenos Aires, there is no Little Italy like in New York. Italian culture is omnipresent in the arts, gastronomy and language. It is estimated that 60% of Argentineans today have some Italian blood. Without a doubt, Argentineans are overtly proud of their Italian roots and continue to keep the spirits of their European ancestors alive. Even those who are not of Italian origin enjoy eating typical Italian dishes and have a broad knowledge of Italian history. I would say that this sums up the beauty and uniqueness of Argentina: a melting pot of cultures which have conserved their customs whilst also adopting a shared Argentinidad.

Why is Argentinean Spanish so different?

It is true that Argentinean Spanish is very distinctive and has a ton of words which do not exist in standard Spanish from Spain or other Latin American countries. Argentineans speak as though they are singing (like Italians) but it can be a bit of a challenge for learners of Spanish or Spanish speakers themselves to understand them!

So, why are so many words different in Argentinean Spanish? You will be surprised by the number of words of Italian origin that Argentineans use in everyday conversation. In fact, the first Italianisms started to appear in the Spanish language between 1400 and 1500, during the Italian Renaissance. Dante’s language mainly influenced art, music, theatre, gastronomy and navigation.

However, Argentinean Spanish is characterised by extensive linguistic borrowing from Italian. It all began when Argentina received several huge waves of European immigration, of which the two main groups were Italians and Spaniards.

When the immigrants arrived, they mixed their mother tongues in an attempt to communicate with one another, as well as with the locals. This gave birth to Lunfardo, the slang which originates from Buenos Aires.

Previously, it was believed that Lunfardo was a secret language created by thieves so that the police would not be able to understand what they were saying! However, Lunfardo has finally earned its place as a symbol of Argentinean identity and some words have even been recognised by the Real Academia.

Indeed, Lunfardo is very present in the lyrics of Tango music, which is an iconic symbol of porteño regional identity. According to the Academy of Lunfardo in Buenos Aires, there is a wealth of around 6,000 words and phrases and 70 new ones are invented every year. Indeed, the evolution of Lunfardo is a sign of how the spirits of the 19th and 20th-century Italian immigrants continue to live on in Argentina today.

Common Lunfardo expressions which come from Italian:

Morfar– to eat (comes from the Italian word for mouth: morfa)

Pibe– young man (from the Italian pivetto)

Laburo- work/job (from the Italian lavoro)

Facha- looks (from the Italian facia, or face)

There are also many words related to gastronomy. For example:

Birra– beer (rather than the standard Spanish: cerveza)

Tuco– type of tomato sauce

Che Boludo! Why are you moving your hands about?

Italians are renowned for talking with their hands and Argentineans have definitely inherited this custom from their Italian ancestors. So, if you see an Argentinean pinching their fingers together, they are probably saying ‘are you kidding?’

Likewise, people often make a ‘c’ sign with their fingers in restaurants to tell the waiter that they would like a cortado (coffee). Furthermore, like Italians, Argentineans love nicknames! It is actually a sign of affection to call their friend “chubby” (gordo) and it is common for people to not know their friends’ real name!

Family always comes first

Much like their Italian cousins, Argentineans come from very closely-knit families where three generations sit around the table every day. There is nothing more important to Argentineans than meeting up with the extended family on a Sunday to savour a delicious asado together.

In Argentina, one is considered to be responsible for taking care of one’s family and relatives provide a network of support during times of need. It is common for the family trade to be passed down from generation to generation which is why there are lots of family-owned restaurants, wineries and shops.

However, the model of a typical family in Argentina is drastically changing. Middle and upper-class families are having fewer children and women are becoming more present in the political and public sphere. Despite that the nuclear family is changing, family continues to be the most important aspect of life in Argentina.

Italo-Argentine cuisine: a marriage of flavours

When the first Italian communities settled in Argentina, they continued to prepare the typical dishes from their regions. The local Argentine population soon adopted these Italian dishes which became universal family favourites. So much so that by the 1920s, Porteños stopped eating puchero (beef and vegetable stew) for Sunday dinner and opted for pasta dishes instead. This trend even spread to other regions which received fewer Italian immigrants. The rich variety of regional dishes cooked by the immigrants who came from different parts of Italy gave birth to the diverse Argentinean cuisine that we know today.

People often assume that Argentineans are pure carnivores who eat nothing but asado or meat from the parrilla every day. Be it for financial reasons or out of preference, the typical mid-week meal in most Argentinean households is actually pasta or pizza.

Asados are saved for special occasions or the weekend when people set aside a whole afternoon or evening to enjoy some quality food and catch up their loved ones.

Typical Italian dishes in Argentina:

Milanesa

Milanesas are one of the favourite dishes in Argentinean households and they are the equivalent to a chicken or beef schnitzel. Although sometimes they are prepared with fish.

The most popular type of milanesa is the napolitana which is covered in tomato sauce, ham and melted mozzarella cheese. However, there are lots of different toppings, such as fried egg, guacamole and barbecue sauce.

Pizza

The classic Argentinean pizza is very different to the typical thin-crust pizzas that you find in Italy. In Argentina, pizzas have a thick, airy dough and a chunky crust with all of the classic pizza toppings.

There is also a special type of Argentinean pizza which originates from Buenos Aires called fuggazzetta which is prepared with two pizza bases with cheese in the middle topped with onions.

Gnocchi night

Why do Argentineans eat gnocchi on the 29th of each month? When families were struggling to make ends, they needed to fill their stomachs with the cheapest food possible and these potato-dumplings served the purpose. According to the tradition, each poor family had to invite a hungry person to eat in their house who was actually a saint in disguise who would reward their generosity by placing a gold coin under his plate.

During the Second World War, it became more and more common to eat gnocchi before payday out of necessity. From then onwards, Gnocchi Night has turned into an important national tradition. Nowadays, the 29th is a night in which families reflect on the importance of generosity. It is even believed that those who donate the money left under their plates to charity will be rewarded with deep pockets.

Best places to eat Italian food in Mendoza:

La Marchigiana

La Marchigiana is one of the best-known restaurants in Mendoza. La Marchigiana first opened its doors in the city centre in 1950 as the first bonafide Italian restaurant in Mendoza. This family-run restaurant was founded by María Teresa Corradini, more commonly known as Teresa Barbera, who has become one of Mendoza’s best-loved chefs today. Teresa left post-war Italy at aged 13 with her family in search for a better life in the promised land of Argentina. The family first set up a B&B in Mendoza where her mother taught her how to cook for the guests.

Determined to make something of herself in Argentina, Teresa was one of the first women to set up her own business. She has passed on her hardworking values to her own children and now the fourth generation of her family is working in her restaurants. The restaurant serves typical Italo-Argentinean specialities including grilled meat, milanesa, lasagna and tiramisu. The menu tells the story of Teresa’s journey from the tragedy of wartime Italy to her newfound love for her adopted homeland, Argentina.

La Marchigiana, Patricias Mendocinas 1550, Mendoza. Tel. +54 (0) 261 423-0751

La Marchigiana branch in Palmares: Palmares Open Mall, Tomás Godoy Cruz 2650, Godoy Cruz. Tel. +54 (0) 261 439-1961

Francisco Barbera (an upmarket restaurant also owned and run by Teresa), Chile 1268. Tel +54 (0) 261 425-3912

Ferruccio Soppelsa ice cream parlour

You will find gelaterias on just about every corner of every street in Mendoza. However, Ferruccio Soppelsa stays true to its Italian roots. Güerino Soppelsa came from Italy to Mendoza in 1927, where he set up his first ice cream parlour and ice cream stand. Soon, Güerino’s family came over from Italy to help him to expand the family enterprise. They opened another ice cream parlour and started to deliver ice creams on their iconic tricycles. The business was then awarded the ‘Cavalieri del Lavaro’ prize from the Italian government which recognises successful enterprises outside of the peninsular.

Ferruccio Soppelsa continues to invent new innovative flavours. I have to recommend their mouthwatering Malbec sorbet which pretty much encompasses the fusion of Italian and Argentinean gastronomy and culture in Mendoza.

Av. Emilio Civit 2, Espejo 299, Av. San Martin Sur 450, Av. General Las Heras 199

La Cuyanita pasta shop

La Cuyanita is a pasta factory and shop which was founded by an Italian couple from Piedmont who originally lived in Cordoba, before moving to Mendoza to set up their pasta shop. Now, the grandmother still lives above the pasta shop and factory, whilst the third generation takes care of the day-to-day running of the business.

La Cuyanita sells homemade Italian pasta including ravioli (several fillings including ricotta and nuts, five cheese and meat), pappardelle, tagliatelle and handmade agnolotti. The shop also sells fresh empanadas and delicious pasta sauces which the chefs make from scratch every day.

This family business has continued to expand and they will soon open an on-site restaurant selling authentic Italian food; just like mamma used to make!

Martín Zapata 202. Tel. +54 (0) 261 425-7836

Italian architecture in Mendoza

Plaza Italia

Plaza Italia is a symbol of the friendship and close bonds between Argentina and Italy. In 1922, a monument was inaugurated in memory of the Italian residents who left Mendoza to fight for Italy on the Italo-Austrian front during WW1.

There is an emblematic sculpture created by Giorgio Igne in 1996 of a woman placing her hand on a wheel decorated with the different emblems of the regions of Italy. With her other hand, she is riding a horse which represents the history of Italian culture in Mendoza and the path to the future of Argentina.

Every year just before the Vendimia, the Festa in Piazza takes place in the Plaza Italia. Locals decorate the plaza as a way of keeping the memory of their Italian ancestors alive. There are many stalls selling typical Italian delicacies, as well as street entertainment and music. This is the perfect occasion for locals and tourists to celebrate the Italian influence at the heart of Mendocinian identity.

Italian cultural organisations in Mendoza

Associazione Veneta Mendoza-Giovana

When Italian immigrants first arrived in Mendoza, they set up local clubs in which immigrants from the same region would meet up and conserve the traditions and languages of their villages. Nowadays, these associations live on and organise get-togethers with traditional Italian meals under the central body of the FEDIME.

I was recently invited to attend a Spritz Evening organised by the Associazione Veneta Mendoza-Giovana and I felt like I was in Italy! Three generations sat down around the table enjoying a wholesome meal of polenta, homemade pasta and ragu prepared by a team of cooks under the watchful eye of the nonna!

The young performers singing in Italian on the stage were a sign that Italian culture will have an enduring influence in Mendoza.

Dante Alighieri Institute Mendoza

The Italian influence in Argentina is so strong that the Dante Alighieri Institute has decided to host its first international congress this year in Buenos Aires, rather than in Italy! The Dante Institute in Mendoza regularly organises events in order to preserve the Italian culture and language in the local community. For example, each month, they organise an Italian cinema event in collaboration with Mendoza City Council. In October, the Institute celebrates Italian Gastronomy Week and Italian Language Week and in November, students can participate in a theatre workshop and show.

From Italian immigrants to Argentinean migrants

The Vice President of the Dante Alighieri Institute in Mendoza, Carla Ventimiglia, explains that recently there has been a considerable increase in the number of students enrolling for Italian courses. Due to the current economic crisis in Argentina, many citizens are hoping to study or work in Italy. It is fairly simple to obtain an Italian passport by blood as it only requires a few papers. However, in order to obtain a passport by marriage, you must pass an intermediate-level Italian exam.

Many students feel drawn towards learning Italian as a way of discovering their own identity. During the classes, they remember certain words that their grandparents used to say in the kitchen either in standard Italian or a regional dialect.

History is definitely going back on itself and who knows if Argentinean culture will end up influencing Italian national identity in several years to come. What is certain is that the close ties between these two countries, who may not share any borders or even speak the same language, remain as unbreakable as ever.

August 23, 2019 0 comment

Mendoza wine history & Italian influence. Rutini winery

Argentina Wine Guide Argentina Features Wine Travel & Culture

The history of Mendoza & its Italian wine influence: Interview with top historian, Professor Cueto

by Clorrie Yeomans August 2, 2019

written by Clorrie Yeomans

Mendoza has a rich history of winemaking which has been heavily influenced by the Italian immigrant community. Clorrie Yeomans interviews Professor Adolfo Omar Cueto is Mendoza’s top historian, lecturing at the National University of Cuyo, about the history of Mendoza and how Italian immigration helped shape the wine industry, as well as the local gastronomy, architecture and art. This interview took place in the historic San Felipe Wine Museum in Bodega La Rural winery.

Argentina is often referred to as the most European country in South America due to the waves of European immigration that it has received. Can you specify the different time periods in which Europeans came to Mendoza, in particular from Italy?

Professor Adolfo Omar Cueto from the Universidad Nacional de Cuyo, National University of Cuyo in Mendoza. — Professor Cueto

Since the foundation of Mendoza in 1561, until the end of the colonial period in 1810, only Spanish people were allowed to immigrate to Argentina. As a result, very few people from other countries arrived. Nonetheless, a small number of Italians did immigrate to Argentina during this period. They were usually professionals, such as lawyers, architects and engineers, from international companies. A large number of these workers were involved in the mining industry.

During the Civil War period from 1810 and 1861, very few immigrants came to Argentina. From 1861 onwards, Buenos Aires, amongst other provinces, underwent a period of major development under what we call the ‘Liberal governments’. These politicians were aware that in order to govern the country, they needed a bigger population to boost productivity. There were some Italians that worked in agriculture at the time, but not in Mendoza.

An attractive immigration policy was introduced under the local government of Francisco Civit so that foreign workers and companies would fill the labour shortages. During this period, the first few Italians arrived in Mendoza.

So, when was the main wave of Italian immigration in Mendoza?

The arrival of the railway in Mendoza in 1885 triggered an influx of immigrants during the period which we call ‘the great immigration’ in Argentina. This period of mass immigration lasted from 1885 to 1910. In Mendoza, the two main groups of immigrants were Italians and Spaniards. However, people also came over from France, Germany and England. Nonetheless, the immigrants who stood out the most were the Italians because they spoke a different language and had different customs. Whereas, we did not really notice the Spanish immigrants because we speak the same language as them.

Why did so many immigrants come from Italy, rather than other European countries?

On the one hand, Argentinean presidents, including Sarmiento, Avellaneda and Roca, primarily wanted English and Scottish immigrants, rather than immigrants from Latin cultures. The belief that some cultures are superior to others was still very strong at the time. However, Britain needed its workforce during the Industrial Revolution so the government was not going to let people leave.

Italy, on the other hand, was suffering from some really serious social conflicts. In addition, a Malaria epidemic broke out in Rome around 1880. And so the standard of living in Italy was extremely low. For the Italian government, the fewer citizens they had to look after, the better. Consequently, from 1875 to 1975, an astounding 70 million Italians immigrated to other countries!

In fact, the money that Italian immigrants sent back to their families in Italy through the Bank of Italy significantly improved the quality of life of the remaining Italians. Indeed, this economic aid helped to bring about the unification of Italy. So, when we analyse the impact of Italian immigration we must not overlook the benefits which it brought about for Italy, as well as the transformations in the receiving country.

How did these first Italian immigrants earn a living?

Most of the Italian immigrants worked on farms but they did not own the land. However, there were also some Italians winemakers who helped to bring about the viticultural boom in Mendoza. For example, we are in the La Rural winery. This bodega was founded by the Italian Felipe Rutini who arrived in Argentina in 1889 and established the winery in 1895. Many Italians settled in cities, where they set up their own small businesses; for example, they were hairdressers and shoemakers. Indeed, these immigrants started to form what we would call the middle class. This significantly changed the social structure and political system in Argentina and Mendoza.

What was the impact of Italian immigration on the winemaking industry in particular?

San Felipe Wine Museum at Bodega La Rural winery in Maipu. History of Felipe Rutini. — Rutini’s wine museum

From the end of the 19th century onwards the winemaking industry became the principal industry in Mendoza, since the cereal industry was destroyed after the 1861 earthquake and the mining industry died down. Remember that the Spanish and Italian immigrants were from winemaking regions. Consequently, they manage to easily integrate into society in Mendoza. The immigrants also represented a source of skilled labour in the vineyards and wineries. And, as they were used to drinking wine, demand soared and the domestic market grew considerably.

These European immigrants also brought over a lot of technology which transformed winemaking in Mendoza. Even if they did not manage to bring over the machinery, they knew what they needed to buy in Argentina.

For most Argentineans, the concept of selling their products in European markets seemed impossible. On the other hand, these Italian and European winemakers were familiar with European markets. As a result, they were not just winemakers but rather business people striving to commercialise their products and explore new export markets.

How did Italian immigration help to introduce the variety of different wines which are produced in Argentina?

The Italian immigrants brought over vines from grape varieties which were typical to their particular regions and planted them in Argentina. As a result, the quality and diversity of wines produced in Mendoza significantly increased. Whereas at the time, the Criolla grape varieties produced very limited quality wines.

Why did these immigrants decide to stay and not to return to Italy?

Well, a small number of Italians did manage to achieve the ‘American dream’, as they say. Juan Giol came to Mendoza and established his winery. His business was extremely successful and in 1917, he was able to sell everything. He then lived very comfortably for the rest of his life in Italy.

Winemaker Felipe Rutini who established the Bodega La Rural in 1885 in Maipu, Mendoza, Argentina. — Italian vigneron Felipe Rutini

And what happened to Felipe Rutini? As I already mentioned, Rutini established his winery, Bodega La Rural, in 1895. His business was so successful that he was able to send his wife and children to Italy, so that his children could study there. Rutini crossed the Atlantic to visit his family on a regular basis.

Lots of these immigrants who were nobodies in their own countries became respectable members of society here in Mendoza by marrying upper-class Argentinean girls. In general, the immigrant middle class lived very well here. Besides, they had sold everything to come to Argentina, so they had nothing to come back to thirty or forty years later.

So, did the majority of the European immigrants manage to make a better life for themselves in Argentina?

No, in fact, it did not go well for a considerable number of immigrants. However, they did not have the money to pay for a return ticket to Europe. Going back to Europe with nothing was just as bad as staying in Argentina.

During the end of the 19th century or the beginning of the 20th century, the social structure in continental Europe was still pretty much the same as that of Medieval times.

How did the first significant wave of Italian immigration change the physical characteristics of the ‘typical Mendocinian’?

This huge influx of immigration transformed phenotype of the creole. Especially in the ‘central belt’ of Argentina; which is the most populated part of the country stretching from Buenos Aires over to Cordoba and Mendoza.

How did the communities of Italian immigrants influence the local culture in Mendoza?

In 1881, these Italian immigrants had already started to form cultural societies. These groups organised activities and events in order to conserve the Italian culture, customs and language. They also set up Italian schools for children and during the weekend, they would meet up and eat together like old times in their villages.

Do these cultural societies still exist in Mendoza?

The Italian Hospital and the Dante Alighieri School, both of which still exist today in Mendoza, were built in part thanks to the influence of these Italian immigrant societies. These associations do not just exist for the Italians. The French Alliance, for example, has a very similar structure. These organisations primarily aimed to form and maintain connections between the immigrants and their home countries.

If so many Italians came to Argentina, then why is Italian not a second language here?

What happened is the Italian immigrants had to learn to speak Spanish to communicate with the majority of the population. What’s more, for some immigrant families who mainly spoke their dialects, standard Italian was their second language so they stopped speaking it. Then English and French started to be taught as part of the national curriculum which meant that Italian disappeared. Other than the bilingual Dante Alighiera school, very few institutions teach Italian now. In fact, we have stopped recruiting Italian teachers in the Faculty of Arts at the Cuyo National University due to a lack of demand.

That’s a shame. Are Argentineans reluctant to learn foreign languages then?

No, I would not say that Argentineans are reluctant to learn languages. They have less opportunities to practise their languages. You have to remember that in Europe, lots of students have the chance to participate in language exchanges and the Erasmus programme. In South America, the same language is spoken in all of the countries except Brazil. This means that we have to travel 14,000 kilometres to Europe in order to get some practice. Many people don’t have the money to travel to Europe and they therefore forget what they learnt at school.

The same thing happened to the descendants of the Italian immigrants. Gradually, they lost the language which their grandparents spoke as they assimilated with the rest of the population. On the other hand, if the Italians had all moved to the same places and formed closed communities, then perhaps we would still speak Italian in some parts of Argentina*.

{Editor’s Note: This is why Welsh is still spoken, often as a first language, in Gaiman, Trelew and Trevelin in Patagonia.}

How did Italian immigration impact the gastronomy and culinary culture in Mendoza?

Pasta is a popular dish in Mendoza. However, before the waves of Italian immigration, pasta did not exist here. The Italian immigrants brought pasta over from Europe to Argentina. One day, they decided to start making it in Argentina. Then, the local people started to enjoy these Italian dishes, too. As the Spanish and Italian immigrants came from different regions, they brought their own regional food, customs and culture with them. As a result, Argentina is a melting pot of cultures.

Argentineans speak a very different variety of Spanish to what you will hear in Spain. How did Italian immigration impact the language here?

In South America, there are infinite different varieties of Spanish. An Argentinean would sometimes struggle to understand a Chilean, for example, as we have so many words that are different. When the Italian immigrants arrived in Buenos Aires, they spoke a broken Spanish mixed with Italian which was called ‘lunfardo’. Indeed, the lyrics of Tango music are heavily inspired by lunfardo.

Very interesting. So, the roots of Argentinean culture aren’t just Spanish…

In Mendoza, you will see that there is a huge Italian influence in terms of the architecture. The Italian winemakers who arrived in Argentina in 1900 built their wineries with an Italian style of architecture. Some of the oldest buildings in Mendoza are influenced by Italian architecture. These buildings still stand today and are a reminder of the lasting presence of Italian culture in Mendoza.

So, tell us a little bit about the San Felipe Wine Museum where we are here in the Bodega La Rural.

Winemaker Felipe Rutini’s grandson, Doctor Rodolfo Reina Rutini, worked for years to bring together a collection of winemaking artefacts and establish the San Felipe Wine Museum in the Bodega La Rural winery. The museum now houses a collection of over 6,000 items which show the progression of winemaking in Argentina from the colonial period to the present day. Don’t forget to go inside the ‘Immigrant’s House’ which is full of memorabilia from the Rutini family including photos and the original plans of the winery drawn by Felipe Rutini.

What is unique about this museum is that it is located within the old winery which still continues to produce wine today (although the majority of production is based in an external winery). Tourists who come during the harvest season see the trucks pulling up outside the winery full of grapes!

We have placed some of the artefacts next to the modern machinery that we use to make wine today so that people can see how much winemaking has advanced. Not only do we have artefacts from the Bodega La Rural, but we also have many items which tell the story of winemaking in Argentina in general.

Yes, definitely! Thank you, Professor Cueto, for sharing the fascinating history of Italian immigration in Mendoza and Argentina with us!

Interview by Clorrie Yeomans

Find out more about the Bodega La Rural winery in our Argentina winery guide.

A family history in Uruguayan wine: Daniel Pisano interview

by Clorrie Yeomans July 19, 2019

written by Clorrie Yeomans

One of the most charming aspects of exploring Uruguayan wine is that most producers are wine families with a multi-generational history. Each winery has its own identity and style, defined by the different family tastes and often by their European ancestry. One of the most prominent wine families in the traditional Canelones region of Uruguay is the Pisano family. Today Pisano winery is run by three brothers – Daniel, Eduardo and Gustavo Pisano – who each take care of different aspects of the business (sales, viticulture and winemaking respectively).

In this video interview made in collaboration with Uruguay.Wine, Daniel Pisano discusses his experience and perspective of the family business and what makes Uruguayan wine unique.

Daniel Pisano interview: Pisano wines & Uruguayan wine legends

“My grandfather, Cesare Pietro Secundino Pisano, was the first to come to Uruguay in 1914. He started to plant his vineyard and later to make wine. I was born here and I have always been surrounded by wines of quality. But more important than quality, making wines with personality!

“Our wines are: Pisano first, then Uruguayan, then South American, then New World! It is a pleasure to be able to work as part of a family and share this experience with one another.

“Our vineyards are on the 35th parallel south; where we have good light intensity. Where we reach good maturity of tannins and alcohol; whilst maintaining good natural acidity. For me, that’s what makes the Uruguayan identity.

“You don’t have to correct the wines, the wines are natural. Every wine from every family is different. We can offer different, unique and personal wines, which come from the mind of the Pisano family and from our terroir. There are wine lovers who want to taste that kind of experience, don’t they? Uruguayan wine is an experience.

“We feel like wine chefs. We don’t manufacture. We don’t have a recipe. Our wines are like us, robust! We like to offer wines that we are proud of but we are not worried about perfection.

“Most importantly, we are searching for the feeling that wine lovers get from the wine. The feeling of arriving somewhere and seeing your bottle there. That’s part of the reward, and you enjoy that achievement. I’m not looking for any other life than this one.”

Clorrie Yeomans

The deeply-rooted wine culture in Argentina

Argentine wine history: The Criolla and colonial period

Argentina wine history during the 19th & 20th centuries: the influence of European immigration

The winemaking boom in Argentina

The Founding Father of Malbec in Argentina, Michel Aimé Pouget

Argentina wine history & the development of the railway

Modern Argentine wine history: The 1990s to early 2000s & exports of high-quality wines

Open borders, open minds: An international outlook for Argentina

Malbec booms and so does wine tourism

The wine tourism boom & future generations of Argentine wine lovers

Read more about the history of winemaking in Argentina, its wine regions & wineries

Recommended reading

Italian culture at the heart of Argentinidad

Why is Argentinean Spanish so different?

Common Lunfardo expressions which come from Italian:

Che Boludo! Why are you moving your hands about?

Family always comes first

Italo-Argentine cuisine: a marriage of flavours

Typical Italian dishes in Argentina:

Milanesa

Pizza

Gnocchi night

Best places to eat Italian food in Mendoza:

La Marchigiana

Ferruccio Soppelsa ice cream parlour

La Cuyanita pasta shop

Italian architecture in Mendoza

Plaza Italia

Italian cultural organisations in Mendoza

Associazione Veneta Mendoza-Giovana

Dante Alighieri Institute Mendoza

From Italian immigrants to Argentinean migrants

Argentina is often referred to as the most European country in South America due to the waves of European immigration that it has received. Can you specify the different time periods in which Europeans came to Mendoza, in particular from Italy?

So, when was the main wave of Italian immigration in Mendoza?

Why did so many immigrants come from Italy, rather than other European countries?

How did these first Italian immigrants earn a living?

What was the impact of Italian immigration on the winemaking industry in particular?

How did Italian immigration help to introduce the variety of different wines which are produced in Argentina?

Why did these immigrants decide to stay and not to return to Italy?

So, did the majority of the European immigrants manage to make a better life for themselves in Argentina?

How did the first significant wave of Italian immigration change the physical characteristics of the ‘typical Mendocinian’?

How did the communities of Italian immigrants influence the local culture in Mendoza?

Do these cultural societies still exist in Mendoza?

If so many Italians came to Argentina, then why is Italian not a second language here?

That’s a shame. Are Argentineans reluctant to learn foreign languages then?

How did Italian immigration impact the gastronomy and culinary culture in Mendoza?

Argentineans speak a very different variety of Spanish to what you will hear in Spain. How did Italian immigration impact the language here?

Very interesting. So, the roots of Argentinean culture aren’t just Spanish…

So, tell us a little bit about the San Felipe Wine Museum where we are here in the Bodega La Rural.

Yes, definitely! Thank you, Professor Cueto, for sharing the fascinating history of Italian immigration in Mendoza and Argentina with us!

Find out more about the Bodega La Rural winery in our Argentina winery guide.

Daniel Pisano interview: Pisano wines & Uruguayan wine legends

Find out more about Uruguayan wine: