In 1995 two young Italians, Antonio Morescalchi and Alberto Antonini, decided to take a chance on a little-known grape at the time… Malbec. They founded Altos Las Hormigas winery and exported some of the first premium Malbec wines to the USA, championing this rare variety as something new and exciting from Argentina. Since then, the variety has gone on to boom in Mendoza and become the flagship grape variety of the country. In this interview with Antonio Morescalchi, we get the story behind their faith in the ‘cepa francesa‘ and how he sees the evolution of Malbec over the past thirty years and what he anticipates in the years to come.
Taking a chance on Malbec: An interview with Altos Las Hormigas Antonio Morescalchi
Side note: This video interview was filmed right by the water reserve of the vineyard, you might hear the water splashing in the background (and the active bird life!)
“Mendoza was fascinating to us,” explains Antonio about when he and Alberto Antonini arrived in August 1995. “We immediately felt a connection here.”
On tasting some old samples of Malbec being stored in local wineries, Alberto was convinced that this was the grape variety that Argentina should be championing — not the Cabernet Sauvignon that most were investing their energies in. “We felt there was something special here that the world would appreciate.”
In the late 1990s, Altos Las Hormigas was one of the pioneers in exporting premium Malbec and helped put it on the map. “In 1995, there was no market for Malbec. But since then a lot has changed. In the early 2000s, Malbec because a big success. But with big success there’s also a standardisation. And Malbec then became a style and wine that very easy to understand, fruit-driven. And consumers got bored.”
Antonio, Alberto and his team also got bored with those commerical, more simple style. “We wanted something more… and I feel that ten years ago there was [a movement and] shift. Malbec has evolved beyond just the expression of a grape variety, but expression of region.”
The modern Malbec wines of Altos Las Hormigas most certainly do focus on the expression of place, over grape variety. But the portfolio has also grown to extend beyond Malbec in recent years, including other traditional varieties in the region including Bonarda, Semillon, Chenin Blanc and Pedro Gimenez, as well as newer plantings of Cabernet Franc.
New releases & wines to try from Altos Las Hormigas
Colonia Las Liebres, Como una liebre en Marzo
This Charmat-method Bonarda is a delightful sparkling wine with just a hint of pink and a refreshing, slightly grippy finish.
Altos Las Hormigas, Burbajas de los Andes
A traditional method bubbly made from Bonarda from the cool sub-region of El Peral in the Uco Valley, this is deliciously fine with a chalky finish and some complexity from 12 months on the lees.
Altos Las Hormigas, Blanco 2022
Making a truly ‘Argentine’ blend, this austere Uco Valley white has 50% Semillon, 30% Chenin Blanc and 20% Pedro Gimenez. These varieties all historically were very important in Argentina, and wines like this show why they have a key part to play in the future too. A nervy and mouthwatering wine that is more about texture than aroma.
Altos Las Hormigas, Blend Tinto 2021
This red blend is also a nod to the history of Argentine wine, and a co-fermentation of Malbec with Semillon, and then blended with Bonarda. It is a modern celebration of the wines that were likely much more common half a century ago, and its juicy, fruit-forward and bright expression makes a strong arguement for why we need more of these wines today!
Colonia Las Liebres, Cabernet Franc 2022
I love the peppery style of this fresh Cabernet Franc from Agrelo. Bright, spicy and with a fine spine of tannin keeping it taut.
Altos Las Hormigas, Vino de Jardin 2021
I cannot wait for the new Jardin Altamira range to be launched from Altos Las Hormigas. This is the first in the line, and an awesome value Malbec with wild notes of herbs, flowers and kumquats! It takes you straight to the vineyard itself. Energetic and fragrant Malbec.
Altos Las Hormigas, Appellation Gualtallary 2021
Coming from Gualtallary, this wine has all the tension and muscular tannin you expect from this sought-after sub-region. Its dark nose with slightly wild herbal notes make this a wine for venison or game.
Altos Las Hormigas, Appellation Paraje Altamira 2021
With a floral and dark berry fruit nose, this has the silky approach typical of Paraje Altamira but there’s also incredible length and a mineral edge to it. A delicious wine of top calibre and purpose.
Jardin de Hormigas, Los Amantes 2021
This is a very sophisticated new wine with subtle layers of mountain herbs and brush, and a focused palate with a linear direction, a mouthwatering freshness and great purity. Very elegant, and extremely exciting as the new icon of Altos.
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