Costa Y Pampa

Riesling was supposedly first brought to Chile by Isadora Cousiño in the 19th century and, as a result, there are many old Riesling vines hidden in field blends in the traditional valley floor wine regions. Many of these locations are today too hot to make great wines, but the old vines in Itata seem to prove the exception to the rule. However, it’s the new Riesling vines I’m most excited about, as winemakers are taking this fickle variety to new terrains where it can really come into its own.

There are some excellent coastal Riesling wines coming from San Antonio, and Leyda and Lo Abarca in particular, which have a zesty character. Another exciting new terrain for Riesling is in Chile’s southern region of Bio Bio, Malleco and Osorno where cooler temperatures produce a more mineral Riesling with searing acidity. One of my favourite Chilean Rieslings is in fact a mountain Riesling — so far the only one — from high altitude Colchagua: the racy, austere Riesling of Sierras de Bellavista.

Riesling may be a historic variety for Chile, but it’s being given a new lease of life as winemakers take it to new cool-climate frontiers.