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Indomita

by Pablo Ortiz May 27, 2016

Indomita winery is probably the most eye-catching from the main road in Casablanca – it looks like a white fairy-tale castle perched up on the hill and can’t but help call your attention. Make the steep walk up to the winery and you’ll be greeted with views down the valley and a welcome breeze on the warmer Summer days.

Indomita is owned by the Bethia Group since they bought it over in 2006, and now the winery comprises of vineyards in Casablanca (150 hectares) and in Maipo (350 hectares). The extensive range also expands to Maule and you’ll find all the classic varieties from Chile in their wide portfolio.

A popular stop on the wine route in Casablanca, you can stock up on all their wines in their wine shop or spend some time tasting through the portfolio over lunch at their renowned restaurant.

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May 27, 2016 0 comment

Features By Region Wine Travel & Culture

Chile through a different lens

by Amanda Barnes March 12, 2016

written by Amanda Barnes

When it comes to wine photography, Matt Wilson doesn’t mind pushing the boundaries. And in doing so, he is painting Chile’s wine scene in a different light. Former rock and skateboard photographer Matt Wilson might be the bad boy of wine photography, but his emotive pictures are certainly turning heads and gaining him accolades along the way.

With a Pink Lady Food Photographer of the Year and Born Digital Photography Wine Award under his belt to date, Matt has a refreshing approach to wine photography which moves away from staid barrel room portraits and tired landscape shots, instead focusing more on the characters of wine, the color of the landscapes and he frequently gets a winemaker to smash a bottle of wine against his head, or in the case of his latest ‘oeuvre‘ – chainsawing open a barrel filled with wine.

What’s the difference between photographing wine and rock ‘n’ roll? Not that much it turns out. “Wine is a lifestyle, and rock and roll is a lifestyle!” says Matt who also travelled the world with Hip Hop groups like The Roots, Mos Def and Method Man. Matt likes to photograph animated subjects though, and he does admit “musicians tend to be more animated than your average winemaker.”

But the wine world is changing, and it isn’t just Chile that is starting to shake off the old conservative image of wine. “It’s now about the Millennials,” says Matt commenting on the new interest in wine and buying power of young consumers. “Wine is becoming more accessible to young people.”

Wine has also become cool again. Celebrities like Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie are doing it, footballers like Messi are doing it, even Metallica have their own sommelier on tour. The appeal of Chile for Millennials, Matt believes, is not far behind. “I think it is a young person’s country,” says Matt. “There’s so much adventure to do here: the Atacama, mountains, skiing, rafting…”

Through his photography he is trying to show that side of Chile to the world. As the ‘go-to’ guy for Decanter, Wine Spectator and numerous other wine publications, Matt is representing the country on an international scale. As well as portraying real characters of winemaking, he specializes in documenting the manual workers and the reality of winemaking, deep in the vines. His down and dirty approach often leads him to discover some unsung heroes of the wine world.

When shooting at a historical winery in Maipo he started chatting to a vineyard worker who had been working there 50 years and that was his last day before retirement. “I just suddenly thought that this guy was older than me and had worked his entire life in that vineyard… I like showing the pride in people.” The portrait of his well worn but proud face was unfortunately lost in the earthquake, but similar portraits of vineyard workers are key in his wine photography portfolio and one of the reasons why he is a local photographer to watch.

March 12, 2016 0 comment

Chile Features By Region Features Chile Wine Guide Wine

Chile in a wine glass

by Amanda Barnes February 2, 2016

written by Amanda Barnes

Looking out from under the shade of an ancient Peumo tree, the view ahead of lush green vineyards framed by undulating hillsides could be anywhere in the Mediterranean – or perhaps even England on one of those rare, warm summer days. But it isn’t England, nor even Europe. This is Chile – at the far extremes of the globe, a country just hinged onto the edge of the South American content.

Irrespective of the angle from which you arrive in Chile, it feels remote and extreme. If you arrive from the north of the country, you have to cross a thousand kilometres of the world’s driest desert – the Atacama. With a sparse population of century-old cacti and hardy guanacos, it is a wild and extraordinary landscape, enjoyed by the privileged few who dare to wander into it.

Arriving in Chile from the east, you have to cross the towering Andes mountain range – only paralleled in height by the Himalayas. Imposing mountains create a sharp barrier from the rest of the continent and definitive frontier for Chile. Green, shrub-covered Andean foothills give way to bright red copper-rich rocks, smoking volcanoes, and at the very tippy top you get the teetering snow-caps and ice walls that form some of the most exhilarating mountaineering and ski spots in the world.

At the far south, the tail of Chile disappears in a wisp to the ice lands of Antarctica. Chilean Patagonia is a spellbinding kingdom of dark forests, silver-hued mountains, creaking glaciers and wide fjords. Giant spider crabs dwell in the freezing undercurrents and whales move upstream to find warmer waters for breeding.

Facing out towards the west, the horizon is equally as boundless. Beyond Chile lies the world’s largest ocean – the Pacific. With dramatic coastlines carved out along its 4270km length, Chile borders rough and cold Pacific waters that only begin to be tempered as they reach the shores of Polynesian islands some 8000km away.

Yet within these extreme perimeters lies a fertile oasis. It’s precisely because of its extreme edges that Chile is such a special place for agriculture and winemaking. The natural boundaries of desert, mountains, ice and sea mean that Chile is a virgin territory. When the worst disease in the history of wine, Phylloxera, swept over the globe, ravaging and destroying millions of vineyards the world over, Chile remained completely untouched. Sitting in a remote corner of the world, Chile is blissfully protected.

I feel protected – and quietly smug – sitting between the rolling hillsides in a balmy sunlit green basin of vineyards with a glass of red wine in hand. I’m in the middle of Colchagua – the heartland of Chilean wine. Known as the ‘central valleys’ of Chile, Colchagua and its connecting regions boast a warmer climate with long days of sunshine that are perfect for making supple and juicy red wines from Carmenere, Merlot and Syrah, as well as more tropical white wines like the aromatically explosive Viognier and Gewurztraminer.

This isn’t the only wine region in Chile though. There are the cool coastal regions of Limarí, Casablanca and San Antonio, whose vines are bathed in sea mist each morning and cooled by sea breeze each afternoon. The conditions are perfect for zesty Sauvignon Blanc, steely Chardonnay and electric Syrah.

It’s the hills of Aconcagua, Maipo and Cachapoal, whose vineyards creep up the side of the Andes Mountains reaching cooler temperatures and unadulterated sunlight, that make Chile’s famed Cabernet Sauvignon. And further south there’s the most historical of Chile’s wine regions – Maule, Itata and Bio Bio – where the old vines create magnificently balanced wines including Riesling, Pinot Noir, Carignan and Cinsault.

In my glass right now though, is a blend: an artist’s palate of Chile’s many terroirs, a bright painting of Chile’s diversity, and a sensorial pool of wine hand-picked from different sites around this unique country.

Yes, glass of wine in hand, I’m feeling quite smug indeed…

February 2, 2016 0 comment

Chile Features Features By Region Travel & Culture Squeeze

Visiting San Pedro de Atacama: A guide to Chile’s desert

by Amanda Barnes February 1, 2016

written by Amanda Barnes

There is nowhere else in the world like San Pedro de Atacama.

It may be the driest desert on the planet, but the Atacama is also home to large white salt flats, steam spitting geyser fields, colorful Altiplano mountains and cactus valleys, extreme volcanoes, and clear, star-filled night skies.

Alongside the breathtaking landscapes, there is a plethora of wildlife: pink flamingos, serene guanacos and sunbathing lizards.

But that isn’t the only life here. A vibrant community of locals and travelers create a welcoming and relaxing town that makes San Pedro de Atacama a world-class destination.

The Atacama seems to be an otherworldly destination. So otherworldly in fact that one of its most famous attractions is named after the moon: Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley).

It is not hard to see why this is called Moon Valley – the surface is virtually white. Covered in salt, this extraordinary landscape is part of the Cordillera de la Sal (Salt foothills). Formed over millions of years, water and wind shaped these unique formations: rock sculptures, caverns, caves, sand dunes and interesting patterns. This arid and barren land, with less than 1mm of rain a year, has a unique geography. Moon Valley is a beautiful spot for walking and at only 13kms from San Pedro, it is everyone’s favorite place for sunset.

Nearby is the Valle de la Muerte (Death Valley), which was originally called Valle de Martes (Mars Valley) however after being continuously mispronounced the name changed to Muerte. Both namesakes seem to have good reason, as this valley has dry, red rock and sand (like Mars appears) and barely any life form can live in such brutal conditions (hence Death). The valley has actually been used many times as a film set for movies based in Mars, and as a testing ground for new space expeditions!

Although many life forms cannot survive in such conditions, there are some that thrive: flamingos! Both valleys are part of the National Flamingo Reserve, which is also the third largest salt flat in the world – the Salar de Atacama. This phenomenal salt flat has small pockets of water that form picturesque lakes and lagoons among the spiky, white salt formations. These lagoons are home to three species of pink flamingos and other birds, making them an excellent spot for bird spotting.

It is also a wonderful spot for bathing, and you can visit Laguna Cejar for a swim. The natural sinkhole has up to 28% salt in the water, and the high salt concentration means that you float in the water. Although there is always enough sunshine in the Atacama, the water is very cold at Cejar! For those who prefer warm waters, there are beautiful natural springs with hot thermal pools, like Puritama, that are more inviting. The most famous hot springs of all though, are the geysers…

El Tatio is a geyser field with over 80 active geysers that spit out hot steam and boiling water that comes from beneath the earth’s surface. Located 4,320m above sea level, El Tatio is a high altitude spot and requires a couple days of acclimatization before you can go – but it is certainly worth the wait! El Tatio is best visited at the break of day so that you can witness the huge columns of steam that condense in the cold air. As the sun comes up, the steam appears to shrink although the geysers are just as active. Another attraction here is dipping into the hot thermal pool heated by a geyser. This pool is around 40-60C and is a perfect temperature for the outside temperature of between -10C to 10C. Although it is only safe to enter that one pool, as many of the other geysers reach up to 90C!

Other sites in the high lands of the Altiplano include volcanoes, large lagoons, herds of guanacos (from the llama family), and small, ancient villages of local people. Coming back down towards San Pedro de Atacama you’ll find a valley with a trickle of water which brings life to ancient cacti creating a real oasis in the desert.

History and Culture

While a dry desert might seem an inhospitable environment, the Atacama region has in fact had inhabitants for over 10,000 years. Atacameño natives used to farm llamas and have a rich history of trading. San Pedro was on the Inca trail and was a main stopping point for tradespeople moving across the empire in 15th and 16th centuries. The Inca heritage was so strong here that Incan mummies (of three small children sacrificed) were discovered at the top of nearby Llullaillaco Volcano. You only need to look to the Pukara de Quitor fort to see how developed civilization in San Pedro before the Spanish conquest.

Nowadays though, people from all over Chile and the world live in San Pedro de Atacama town. This is a real hub for tourism and one of the most visited destinations in Chile. The small town is relaxed and laid back, with a village charm.

Experience

During the day, musicians play in the main square and there are many open markets selling local artisan goods and crafts. During the evenings, bonfires are lit in restaurants so that you can enjoy the great outdoors while not getting too cold in the brisk desert temperatures.

Outside is certainly where you want to be at night as the Atacama has some of the clearest skies and best stargazing in the world. The international space project ALMA chose to make San Pedro its base because of the fabulous night viewing and dry conditions at high altitude. While you cannot visit ALMA’s telescopes at night, you can use excellent telescopes in some hotels, visit SpaceObs or just use the naked eye for superb stargazing. The Milky Way is perhaps at its brightest here, and many planets and constellations are visible most nights of the year.

Another nocturnal excursion you cannot miss is experiencing the local cuisine. Typical to this part of Chile is eating local delicacies like guanaco meat, quinoa, trying the local rica rica herb and chañar syrup. Accompany some hearty Atacama cuisine with a glass of warming Chilean Cabernet, and you’ll be ready for the following day exploring the Atacama!

Where to Stay

If you are looking for adventure: Explora
The original luxury hotel in San Pedro, Explora offers over 50 excursions to explore the Atacama. Five minutes from the town center with their own horse stables, you can ride horses, climb volcanoes, and trek through cactus valleys, or just relax in the beautiful gardens and hot springs.

If you are looking for romance: Tierra
Take a private hot tub by candlelight under the stars while you sip on Chilean sparkling wine at this deluxe hotel. Each room has its own terrace and you can recuperate after a day out exploring the desert in their excellent spa or delighting in local cuisine at the restaurant.

If you are looking for nature: Alto Atacama
Next to the Pukara de Quitor, the Alto Atacama is nestled amongst the rocks and feels like you are in the middle of the desert. Beautifully landscaped gardens lead you to the outdoor pools, and you can take one of their many excursions that include nature spotting, local gastronomy and culture tours.

If you want to be in the center of the action: Terrantai
This boutique hotel is in the center of San Pedro. Designed with local rocks in the traditional Atacama style, this small hotel has secluded gardens and shaded rooms. Best of all, you can see the church spires from the garden and are just one block from the main plaza.

Where to Eat

Baltinache, Domingo Atienza
With indigenous ingredients and cooking methods, Baltinache serves Altiplano-Mapuche fusion food in an imaginative set menu.

Adobe, Caracoles
With a beautiful patio and fireplace outside, Adobe has a warm and inviting atmosphere with Chilean cuisine and a traditional band playing each night.

PS. What about wine? Yes! There is wine being made in the Atacama! You’ll only really find it in San Pedro de Atacama as it is a very small, artisan production. Ayllu is the name of the project, where one winemaker works with a handful of local grape producers to individually make and bottle their own small production of wines to sell in the local hotels and restaurants. It’s still in its infancy, but it is a wine project worth hunting down and supporting.

February 1, 2016 0 comment

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