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Cabernet Sauvignon

Kaiken Ultra Cabernet Sauvignon

by Amanda Barnes October 19, 2015

More on the wine

There are few great Cabs in Mendoza, but Kaiken has always been one of the most consistent since it started almost a decade ago and this Cabernet reflects the winemaking team’s commitment to the variety and finding its top expression in Mendoza. With 10% Malbec there is a bit of added juicy fruit but this Cab also shows classic varietal spice and is aged for a year in oak barrels (new and used). The fruit comes from Lujan de Cuyo and the Uco Valley.

More on the producer

Kaiken is renowned Chilean winemaker and entrepreneur Aurelio Montes’ Argentine outpost. In Chile he has Montes winery, and Napa Angel in the US. The original winery was built in the 1920s, but since 2007 he and his business partners took over Kaiken and the winery has a modern production line inside with a capacity of 7 million litres.

October 19, 2015 0 comment

Chile Features By Region Features Wine Maule

Back to the future: Discovering Maule in Chile

by Amanda Barnes July 23, 2015

written by Amanda Barnes

“To talk about the future of Chilean wine, we need to talk about the past – and the past is in the south,” says winemaker Andres Sanchez. While many Chilean winemakers have been pushing the boundaries by planting in new regions stretching from the Atacama Desert region in the north and high altitude Andes to the end of solid land in the cool Coastal areas, some others are rediscovering old vines in the south – particularly in Maule.

As home to some of the first vineyards in Chile, Maule’s history of winemaking stretches back to the days of the Spanish conquistadors in the mid 1500s. As the Spanish rolled into the port towns in the south they didn’t need to travel too much further than Maule in terms of planting vines: its flat lands and temperate climate made it an ideal spot for growing grapes.

Agriculture in the region blossomed and Maule soon became the biggest production region in Chile, as it still is today – measuring a whopping 30,000 hectares of vineyards. However historically you didn’t see Maule on all too many wine labels, because over the last couple hundred of years it has become the real workhorse of Chile, with high production and very little fame. That has changed though as the region is being rediscovered and primed for premium wines with new investment and interest coming from many wineries and winemakers.

“I think that it was a compendium of circumstances that have made Maule one of the most interesting regions,” says Jose Ortega, a pioneer in Maule and owner of O Fournier winery, “from the point of view of the quality of soil with its complexity, with its impressive climatic conditions to make wines with ageing potential, along with the age and characteristics of the old vines. All these characteristics make Maule a region that will be one of the best in the world.”

With warm days, plenty of sunlight, cool nights and the temperature balancing effect of the Maule River, the area is ripe for plantation and best of all in Maule, many vineyards have been planted there for centuries. The large resource of old vines in Maule has made it quite unique for Chile.

“Old vines offer a continuity in quality because of their low yield and the size of the grape is very small,” explains O Fournier winemaker Jose Spisso, “this is reflected in a suitable maturation which gives elegant tannins and allows them to achieve volume in the mouth and an incomparable sweetness.” The older vines also offer a diversity of clones as those that were planted centuries ago are quite distinct to those planted nowadays.

Maule is well known for its reds mainly – producing ripe and silky Carmenere, powerful Cabernet Sauvignon and refreshing Carignan (most notably in the Vigno movement). There are also some interesting wines being made from the most traditional grape in Chile – Pais – which is experiencing a mini-revolution of its own.

These older plantings don’t just stop at Maule, there are also many plantings in Itata further south still. In fact Itata is credited with having the oldest Malbec in the Americas with vines up to 200 years old. Although it isn’t just reds down south, you’ll also find some unique white wines like Muscat being made by wineries such as De Martino and Rogue Vine.

Eyes are turning to the South where growers and winemakers are now breathing new life into the old vines that were some of the first planted in the Americas and have witnessed some of the most remarkable changes in Chilean history.

*Carignan grape photo copyright Garage Wine Co. All other photos copyright The Squeeze

July 23, 2015 0 comment

Chile Features By Region Argentina Features Wine

Chile Vs Argentina: The Copa America of Wine

by Amanda Barnes July 2, 2015

written by Amanda Barnes

It is an exciting prospect for football fans and oenophiles that Chile and Argentina battle it out head to head this weekend in the final of Copa America 2015. For football fans, it is self explanatory. But for wine lovers, it just takes a drop of creativity to see this as a great opportunity to make a battle of the bottles between Chilean and Argentine wine! Do you want to work out whether Malbec from Chile or Argentina is better? Or perhaps Cabernet Sauvignon? Or any other red wines?

Just for kicks, I’m going to put some of Chile and Argentina’s top wines head to head in ‘Copas de America’ wine-off each day till Saturday…

The Copa America of Wine Finals…

Oddball Reds

Both Argentina and Chile’s wine teams are accruing many misfits that are upping the game. Chile is delving into its old roots – Carignan, Pais, Mouvedre, Grenache and aforementioned Malbec (below). The revolution down south is not to be smirked at, and you’ll discover some key varieties that will be – if they aren’t already – main players in the wine scene.

Argentina has another national player in its ranks – Bonarda. Once the workhorse variety of Argentina, Bonarda was replaced largely by Malbec but it has never been out of the game. Its territory is mainly around San Juan where you get great value, full-fruit wines. Another oddball in the family is Tempranillo, finding a natural home is La Consulta and San Carlos in the Uco Valley.

Chilean oddballs Argentine oddballs

The Game:          Slow game from the South                       Diversifying the Malbec game
The Player:         Honest (no tricks) grass roots players   Round, full fruit, good value players
The Tactic:        The long game                                             Filling the gaps in the field

The Verdict?

Chile’s oddballs are more diverse and more populated. There are more players to keep your eye on, and some will make you dribble. Argentina’s oddballs provide good value, but the nation needs to up the diversity in its game.

Key Players (5 a side)

Chile
De Martino: A forerunner of the Vigno Carignan movement, with plenty of other interesting wines too
Errazuriz: Try the Garnacha red blend for yum power
Bodega RE: Making a whole lot of delicious oddballs
Cacique Maravilla: Small producer of rustic Pais and Pais blends from Itata
Garcia Schwaderer: A gamut of delicious reds from Itata

Argentina
Cara Sur: Super Criolla and Bonarda from Barreal
O Fournier: A top apostle of Tempranillo, try their A Crux!
Karim Mussi: Another Tempranillo-fan making some excellent examples in Alto Cedro
Las Perdices: Good Bonarda and also training up lots of other oddball varieties
Passionate Wines: Fresh Bonarda Beaujolais-stlye! Try their Semillon while you are at it!

Semi Finals…

Cabernet Sauvignon

One of the main varieties across the globe, Cabernet is notoriously easy to grow but difficult to really nail. Chile is leading the pack with the Cabernet Sauvignon having achieved a very well known style of Cab, especially from Maipo (not to be confused with Maipu in Argentina!) and the central valleys. It is one of Chile’s best value varieties, and also one of the most expensive premium varieties.

Argentina on the other side of the Andes seemed to have relegated their Cabernet from the game since Malbec took the headlines. But it has been a consistent player, producing solid wines – albeit less striking or attention calling as Malbec. Try some high quality Cabernet from the warmer regions (Salta & Cafayate, Maipu) and you’ll find spicy, ripe wines that age well and are interesting to drink.

Chilean Cab Argentine Cab

The Game:          Bright, berry burst fruit. Cassis kick.                         Sweatier, earthier fruit
The Player:         Great range – from fruit driven, to power structure    Ripened player, round
The Tactic:          Ticks all the boxes, a show pony                                      Underrated talent

The Verdict?

Chile would still take the trophy on this one. Argentina needs to bring a few more players to the game and get their Cabs in training. One Cabernet player that is taking a lead in Argentina is Cabernet Franc – their latest Cab recruit that is premier league.

Key players? (5-a-side)

Chile
Aristos: Elegant and reigning supreme… (If you can’t afford this player try juicy Clos de Fous by same winemaker)
Aquitania: High cassis notes from Alto Maipo, beautiful
Antiyal: Understated Cab beauty with a biodynamic philosophy
Domus Aurea: Excellent single-site Cabernet producer in Clos Quebrada de Macul
Concha y Toro: A Cab for every price point, and an irresistible football endorsement for this article

Argentina
Pulenta Estate: Rich Cabernet and excellent blend to boot
Noemia 2: When the year is right, this Patagonia Cab is a winner
El Porvenir: Intense Cab from sunny Salta
Sophenia: An Uco Valley producer with well performing Cabs
Clos de Chacras: Good value Cabs from this Chacras winery

Quarter Finals…

Malbec

You might associate this variety more with Argentina (perhaps like football) but while Malbec is the forward striker for Argentina and has made as much of a name for itself as Messi or Maradona (maybe there’s something in M?) it is also rather more of an unsung hero for Chile. The French variety arrived in Chile before Argentina in the mid 1800s and was planted across the Southern regions of Bio Bio, Maule and Itata, later making its way into Colchagua, Cachapoal and even coastal regions like Casablanca.

While Malbec has been waiting in the wings in Chile for centuries, it is of course Argentina where it made its name – across the country in northern regions like Cafayate & Salta, and La Rioja, and middle regions like Mendoza, San Juan and San Rafael, and even in Argentine Patagonia – Rio Negro, Chubut and Neuquen.

So… the play off?

Chilean Malbec Argentine Malbec

The game:            More shy but, racy acidity            Smooth, supple and generous
The player:           Darker fruit character                    Rich, red fruit hero
Tactic:                   Surprising Malbec                          High-hitting violets

The verdict?

Both countries (and their different regions) produce very different Malbecs, and very worthy wines. But if you throw all the Malbec players in the game, Argentina still come out tops. Although they shouldn’t play lazy – Chile has some dark horses in the game.

Key Players (9-a-side)

Chile
Viu Manent: One of the classic Malbec producers in Chile, lots of ranges
Rogue Vine: Divine old vine Malbec from Itata
Odfjell: Lovely fruit-driven Malbec from Lontue
Truly Irresistable Malbec Bio Bio, The Co-Op (UK): Excellent value Malbec from Bio Bio
Loma Larga: Casablanca winery specialising in red varieties, and a good Malbec
Maquis: Malbec from Colchagua with a fresher style
J Bouchon: Solid Malbecs from Maule
Vultur: Aromatic and fresh Malbec with jasmine notes
Calcu: An attractive offering from Colchagua

Argentina 
Achaval Ferrer: Key players in Malbec, lush and showy
Altos Las Hormigas: ‘The Malbec Specialists’, great single vineyard range
Bodega Bressia: Rich Malbecs, often blended for more complexity
Catena Zapata: Brought Malbec to the World Cup, and with good reason
Colome: High altitude Malbecs
Zuccardi: Their top alluvional is a straight-shooter
Mendel: Classic Malbec producer
Riccitelli: Excellent Malbecs from this young producer
Marcelo Pelleriti: Malbec front-liner from Vista Flores

July 2, 2015 0 comment

News Mendoza By Region Argentina Features Wine

Bodega Casarena launches The Icon

by Rachel Davies June 14, 2015

written by Rachel Davies

It took 4 years in production, but Bodega Casarena has finally launched their new top level wine: The Icon. A blend of their two top single varieties DNA Malbec and DNA Cabernet Sauvignon, the Icon is a rich new addition to the winery’s bursting portfolio, including their recently premiered Single Vineyards collection.

Each Single Vineyards wine is named after the owner’s grandchildren, Jamila’s Malbec, Lauren’s Malbec, Lauren’s Cabernet Franc, and Owen’s Cabernet Sauvignon, to name a few. The philosophy behind their Single Vineyards line is to show the impact the soil has on the resulting wine. Jamila and Lauren’s vineyard are in Lujan de Cuyo and only 5 kilometers apart, but the soil changes notably – and so does the flavour. Jamila’s Malbec comes from rocky limestone and shallow soil giving the wine a fresh taste with mineral and red fruit notes. Lauren’s Malbec comes from clay soil with stones creating black fruit flavors, more intense than the lighter Jamila’s Malbec.

Bodega Casarena was built in 1937 and is co-owned by a North American and an Argentine family who have developed five different lines of wine. Take your pick of which to sip as you sprawl out on the comfy lounge chairs on the outdoor patio at this winery in Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza.

June 14, 2015 0 comment

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