Discover the culture and travel hotspots of Chile and Argentina
Travel & Culture
Where passion will take you…
I’m not the only one that has fallen in love with Mendoza. We are many. Thousands in fact. Each year, hundreds of foreigners come to Argentina’s wine lands and they fall in love. With the wine, with the mountains, with the sunshine, sometimes with a local. Those who fall really hard, tend to buy a vineyard. And that’s the case of the 60 owners of Alpasión…
It was love at first sight for a group of friends who were visiting Mendoza on a business-away trip. Over a long dinner and copious amounts of wine, they decided to invest in a vineyard together. They didn’t invest in a vineyard per se – but an 87-hectare virgin territory which had never been planted before! In 2014, having recruited several more shareholders and wine lovers, they began planting their 60-hectare vineyard in the Uco Valley.
It’s the ideal spot for vines, as agronomist Guillermo Cacciaguerra explains:
Today the property boasts 9 different varieties planted across the estate and last year was the first year that they began to harvest their own fruit. This coming year, they will also be vinifying their first wines on the property in their own winery which is just a few months from completion.
Under the talented hand of Argentine winemaker Karim Mussi, Alpasión has in fact already been producing wine for several years using fruit from neighbouring estates. The idea was to start by making wines from the local region as their own vines come of age.
At the moment, Alpasión is making a handful of red varieties and blends, and one Sauvignon Blanc. Malbec is obviously the flagship, but there’s also a rather delicious Cabernet Franc and a very interesting Petit Verdot which you can taste on a visit:
Visiting Alpasión
Most people, however, don’t come to Alpasión just for wine tasting. But for the restaurant and the lodge.
In a dramatic location at the foot of the Andes mountains, Alpasión has some of the most enviable views in the Mendoza. Set between a maze of vineyards, the boutique lodge is a home away from home. Comfortable living spaces, a pool and your own private patio and hammock make it easy to while away the afternoon following a day wine tasting in the Uco Valley. In the evening, you can stroll down to the intimate restaurant where their in-house chef Héctor Ordenes cooks up a fantastic wine-paired menu each evening.
It’s easy to see why the owners fell in love with Mendoza and, after a night in Alpasión, resting and rising with the stunning Andes mountains in the backdrop, I dare you not to fall in love either. I certainly fell in love with Mendoza all over again.
Check out Alpasión chef Héctor Ordenes’ recipe for Argentine empanadas and a video on how to make them here!

The ultimate empanada recipe is different for every chef in South America – every region has its own twist on the infamous pocket of stuffed pastry. We share our ultimate recipe for empanadas from Mendoza, but there are many regional variations that are worth exploring too!
In Chile, the empanadas come large, fried and are often stuffed with seafood. Along the coast, you’ll find empanadas de jaiba (crab), empanadas de camaron (shrimp), empanadas de ostiones (scallop), and empanadas de mariscos (mixed seafood). These often come stuffed with soft, buttery cheese as well. While, further inland in Chile, you’ll more likely find the ubiquitous empanadas de pino (meat empanadas), which are usually square pockets filled with minced beef, and sometimes egg, black olive, spices and herbs.
An Argentine empanada is generally small, baked and filled with beef (and gets spicier in the north!) Empanadas Salteñas, from Salta, usually include lots of aji pepper and cooked potato with their beef; while in Mendoza it is the inclusion of onion that makes it notably different. Perhaps the most famously different beef empanadas are the empanadas of Cordoba which are slightly sweet – stuffed with not only beef but also raisins, carrot and a dusting of sugar. In Catamarca, goat empanadas are more common, made of chivo or cabrito, and Patagonian empanadas are often of lamb or seafood. In Buenos Aires, you get a big mix of empanadas with humita (corn), jamon y queso (ham and cheese) and chicken empandas very popular, alongside the classic beef empanadas.
Uruguayan empanadas come both fried and baked and can either be quite similar to the Argentine empanada, or (further east in the country) they are closer to the Brazilian empanada (or pastel or pastéis). Brazilian pastéis are commonly made of cheese; chicken; or beef. But my favourite is the rarer Pastel de Carne de Sol made with dried meat.
There’s a whole world of empanadas to discover, but last week I visited Alpasión in Mendoza’s Uco Valley to get Chilean-born, Argentine-bred chef Héctor Ordenes’ take on the perfect empanada recipe and a guide on how to make empanadas. Recipe below!
One of my favourite wine events in Mendoza is the Wine & Cinema month (Vino el Cine) which takes place annually between mid-November and mid-December. It’s a chance to drink wine and watch some classics al fresco in the gardens of some of Mendoza’s prettiest wineries while donating to charity.
The charity being raised for this year is Fundacion Notti which offers training and support for the local hospital. The proceeds of the tickets (costing $200 pesos each) will go to Fundacion Notti.
This year the films are all wine themed. Here’s what you’ve got to look forward to with 2018’s series of Vine el Cine:
- 14th November: Bodegas Caro is showing El Camino del Vino
- 16th November: Bodega La Rural is showing Back to Burgundy
- 17th November: Alta Vista is showing French Kiss
- 24th November: Nieto Senetiner is showing Year of the Comet
- 28th November: Casa El Enemigo is showing A Walk in the Clouds
- 29th November: Catena Zapata is showing Blood and Wine
- 30th November: Tres Wines is showing A Good Year
- 1st December: Bodega Santa Julia is showing Vino Para Robar
- 6th December: Renacer is showing Sideways
- 7th December: Masi Tupungato is showing Days of Wine and Roses
- 8th December: Bodega Trivento is showing Julie and Julia
- 14th December: Domaine Bousquet is showing Notorious
The wineries open at 8pm for a welcome glass of wine and winery tour and the films start at 9pm. Tickets can be purchased at Fundación en Bandera de los Andes 2876 or online here.



