South America is home to a treasure trove of old vines, and we believe these old vines are worth protecting and the heroic growers who maintain them are worth supporting. This is why we’ve created an old vine register for Argentina, Chile, Bolivia and Peru, detailing the age of the vines, the grape varieties, the wine region and how you can support the custodians, the growers and winemakers, of these old vines.
Our old vine register is organised by region and age of the vineyard.
The Atacama Desert is one of the driest, most inhospitable places on earth. But a small group of growers are bringing the desert to life with their vineyards, and making the highest altitude wines in Chile (with vineyards at 3,200 m.a.s.l.). Ayllu is the collective brand of a handful of local growers, all native Atacameños (in Spanish) or Lickanantay (in the native language) people, who collaborate to make a boutique portfolio. The goal of the Lickanantay Co-operative is not just to make Atacama Desert wines but also to bring back the tradition of small-scale wine production in the desert, which goes back several generations.
The village of Tocanao is located at the heart of the Atacama Desert, just a stone’s throw from San Pedro de Atacama, where most tourists head to explore the wonders of the driest desert in the world. Within and on the outskirts of the village, there is a handful of old vineyards planted with Criolla vines that have been cared and tended for by several generations of families, as well as new vineyards planted within the past decade. Together, as a collective, the growers produce six wines: a red blend, a white blend, an orange wine, a white Moscatel de Alejandria, a rosé, and the new icon of the line up, the red Haalar blend.
The conditions in Tocanao and the Atacama Desert aren’t easy for vines. There’s an extreme temperature fluctuation here in the desert at this altitude (ranging from 2,512 m.a.s.l. to 3,200 m.a.s.l.). Daytime temperatures can peak at 26˚C and nighttime temperatures plunge to 5˚C even in the summer (or -1˚C in winter). There’s also intense solar radiation here at this altitude and this is the driest place on earth, so irrigation is essential. That said, these extreme conditions, together with the ancient sandy soils that are rich in minerals and volcanic rocks certainly do make distinctive, somewhat extreme, wines.
It had been a few years since I tried the wines of Ayllu (last time I was in situ tasting by the vineyards!) and it was a pleasant surprise to see how they have evolved. The red wines still reflect the solar intensity of the region with ripe black and red fruit aromas and smooth tannins, but they are much more balanced in these recent vintages. I really enjoyed the orange Moscatel, which I think is a great style for this region, as it is a refreshing and aromatic wine with some grip and complexity, ideal for pairing with local cuisine and drinking either in the warmth of daytime or the coolness of night. Another aspect I really admire about these wines is that they are empowering the local native community and giving them a sustainable business and creative outlet beyond tourism and mining, which is definitely something to be celebrated.
This is a really characterful and appetizing orange wine with notes of chamomile, honeysuckle and peaches and a dry, refreshing finish with slightly grippy tannins and a saline note. Ideal for a refreshing wine in the desert which would work well with local Atacama llama dishes and empanadas.
With a blend of Syrah, Malbec (Cot), País, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this is an intensely aromatic, deeply coloured wine with aromas of plums, raisins and blackcurrant jam. It has smooth, supple tannins, warming alcohol and a slightly tangy finish. One for richer Atacama stews in the evening, to warm up by the fireside.
The new wine from the group, this is a more intense blend of Petit Verdot and Syrah, mainly with some Malbec and Garnacha. Like the other red blend, it is intense and deep (almost black!) in colour, with smooth tannins and rich, ripe fruit flavours of plums and blackcurrants, but the Petit Verdot brings a bit more freshness and structure to the finish, with an appealing note of graphite. This is a wine for local grilled meat and stargazing!
Sebastian Labbé has been at the forefront of Chile’s wine scene in recent years as winemaker at one of Chile’s most important wineries, Santa Rita, where he is in charge of the innovative Floresta range as well as the iconic Casa Real wine, among others. In this educational Terroir Talk Sebastian walks us through three key terroirs for the range: Pumanque and Apalta in Colchagua, and Alto Jahuel in Maipo Andes.
“This Floresta range is the result of many experiments,” he explains. “They have been part of our experiments with different grape varieties and wine regions. We have also made it a rule not to use new barrels, and that the wines are fruit-orientated and show the typicity of the variety and the place.” The range includes the stunning, bright and floral Cabernet Franc from Pumanque, which is a region that Santa Rita has been really instrumental in putting on the map.
There are also the exciting colluvial terroir explorations into the hills of Alto Jahuel and which have been among the areas included in the incredible replanting and revisioning of the Santa Rita estate in Maipo Andes, the source of Floresta Cabernet Sauvignon. And another key wine in the portfolio is the old-vine white Field Blend from Apalta in Colchagua, which has helped lead the renaissance of Semillon in Chile.
Sebastian Labbé discusses all of this and more in this fascinating terroir talk exploring the wine regions, wines and winemaking behind the innovative wines of Santa Rita.
View this post on Instagram
This is one of my favourite white wines from Colchagua and comes from this unique field blend of old vines in Apalta, which include Semillon, Sauvignon Vert, Torontel, Moscatel and Corinto (Chasselas). It is rich white wine with a weighty texture, which can stand up to big dishes and food but also has refreshing acidity underpinning it, and fresh notes of white peach and lemon zest that keep it vibrant. A complex, layered and delicious white blend that ages incredibly well.
Grape varieties: Semillon, Sauvignon Vert, Moscatel, Torontel and Corinto
pH: 3.47
Total Acidity: 6.12 g/l (expressed in Tartaric acid)
Alcohol Content: 13.2 %ABV
Residual Sugar: 1.89 g/l
This is such an exciting Cabernet Franc. From Pumanque in coastal Colchagua, this is a cool-climate Cabernet Franc that exudes the spiciness and leafiness that can be so typical of the variety in its homeland of the Loire. But it is also quintessentially Chilean in essence too with inviting bright red fruit aromas and dried herbal notes. A lively, spicy and fresh Cabernet Franc that is one of the most promising wines made from this variety in Chile.
Grape varieties 100 % Cabernet Franc
pH: 3.66
Total Acidity: 5.30 g/l Tartaric Acid
Alcohol Content: 14.2%ABV
Residual Sugar: 2.33 g/l
This is a really modern and engaging style of Cabernet Sauvignon made with grapes grown in colluvial soils in Alto Jahuel. It’s a different style from the classic wines from the region, which come from the gravel vineyards of Maipo, and this wine from the hillsides offers a very pure nose with notes of blackcurrants, violets and graphite but it has spicier tannins and an energizing finish.
Grape varieties 100 % Cabernet Sauvignon
pH: 3.62
Total Acidity: 5.12 g/l Tartaric Acid
Alcohol Content: 14.3%ABV
Residual Sugar: 2.46 g/l
Chilean sommelier Raul Diaz shares his take on Chilean ceviche with the enticing addition of mango and avocado, and suggests his favourite wine to pair with it.
Ceviche (cured fish) is extremely popular along the Pacific coast of Latin America. I have suggested using
seabass here, but any white fish can be used to make this dish. The addition of avocado, mango and a
variety of herbs creates a great combination of flavours. Chile produces fantastic examples of Sauvignon
Blanc that have excellent acidity with ripe stone fruits, perfect with this tasty ceviche.
1. Combine the fish and onion in a large glass bowl and squeeze over the juice of the limes and the lemon. Mix it well and let it rest for 5–10 minutes, or until the fish is just beginning to turn opaque.
2. After the marinating time, add all the remaining ingredients. Season with salt and pepper and serve
immediately with tortilla chips for scooping.
Serves: 4
Preperation time: 20 minutes
You can buy Raul’s book, Wines and Recipes, online now.
Raul Diaz has worked as a wine expert for the last fifteen years, visiting over a hundred countries around the world in the process. Along the way, he recorded the aromas, the colours and the amazing flavours of each of the local cuisines he has tried, alongside some mind-blowing wines.
In Wines & Recipes he shares these experiences. This is not a traditional food-and-wine pairing book. There are no strict rules or cliché traditions. Just a fantastic universe of wines and recipes waiting for you to dive in and enjoy!
Find out more about Chilean recipes and wine pairing with Amanda Barnes, author of The South America Wine Guide book, and Raul on Instagram Live on Thursday 27th May at 7pm UK as they talk about the art of pairing Chilean food and wine, with a special focus on Pastel de Choclo and Ceviche! Hosted live by @southamericawineguide and @rauldiazwines