Roberto González is head winemaker at Nieto Senetiner and his work with the widely planted Bonarda variety has earned him the nickname Papa Bonarda. Amanda Barnes interviews him on the variety of Bonarda in Argentina and where he sees it going in the future, as well as tasting back through some historic vintages of Nieto Senetiner Bonarda.
You have been working with Bonarda since the mid-80s, at first with Arizu winery, and since 1991 in Nieto Senetiner. How have you seen the approach to Bonarda wines change in Argentina?
Our approach to Bonarda has changed completely. Historically, as Bonarda is a very productive variety, it was only used for economic table wines and for blending into other wines. It was seen as good for increasing volume in local wines for domestic consumption. In the past, it was mainly used for clarete wines [a light red/rosé-style wine] and sometimes even for white wines. It was traditionally the vino masivo of the Republic of Argentina!
But in the 90s Argentina needed to start exporting its wines, and so we started making it for the export market. From our point of view, the way we make Bonarda has changed quite a lot, and ever since the end of the 90s we’ve been focused on making high-quality Bonarda. Today there are a lot of producers who are helping to bring up the standard and make good-quality Bonarda wines.
Tell me about the characteristics of Bonarda, and why plantations increased so much in Argentina during the mid-20th century.
Bonarda is a variety that needs a long, warm season to fully ripen. It’s hard for it to reach full maturity because of the variety itself and also because of its large yields, so it needs to be planted in warmer regions – which is why it grows so well in the east of Mendoza.
During most of the 20th century, Argentina was focussed on producing large volumes of wine, rather than quality, and Bonarda is a very productive variety – so it is good for producing large volumes. During the 70s, in particular, when Argentina had fixed grape prices, producers would go for bigger volume varieties and Bonarda was one of those.
Nieto Senetiner and several other producers in Argentina have made it their mission to promote and produce high-quality Bonarda. What are the main winemaking and viticultural considerations for producing great Bonarda?
You need to control the yield in the vineyard. Bonarda naturally produces about 30,000 kilos per hectare – we reduce that by two thirds.
In the winery, you need to be very careful about managing the temperature of the fermentation as it needs a cooler temperature and gentle extraction. It is very vulnerable to problems in the winery, so you have to constantly check temperatures and the pH.
Bonarda doesn’t have a very aromatic profile and it can pick up oak flavours very quickly, so we only leave it for a maximum of 12 months in oak barrels (mainly to stabilise the colour).
Considering it is quite a demanding grape variety in the vineyard and cellar, what makes Bonarda worthwhile? Why do you enjoy making it?
Bonarda is a great challenge for a winemaker – you have to use all your skills to make a good Bonarda. And it is a really easy-drinking and enjoyable wine. It has great colour and very smooth tannins, and you can drink it when it is very young but it can also age well.
What do you see as the future of Bonarda in Argentina?
At Nieto Senetiner we have introduced Bonarda into our highest-end ranges and had a good response. But, in general, I think Bonarda is a grape variety best suited for good everyday wines. What’s most enjoyable is the easy nature Bonarda has, and I really like its fruit-driven style.
Although you can make concentrated and rich Bonarda wines, for me Bonarda is our equivalent of Beaujolais. It is a wine that should be fresh and easy to drink.
A great virtue of Bonarda too is that it tends to be a low alcohol variety, in general, at around 13 % (and never as high as 15% like Malbec, for example). I think Bonarda has a niche position among lower alcohol wines – around 12% to 13% alcohol, and that’s very appealing.
Bonarda wine tasting notes: Nieto Senetiner Bonarda vertical & terroir series
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Nieto Senetiner Bonarda Limited Edition
This was the first ‘icon’ Bonarda wine to be released in Argentina and set the bar for premium Bonarda wines with its first release in 2000. Tasting through the vertical was an interesting insight into not only the change in vintages but the change in winemaking approach. This had clearly moved from more heavily toasted barrels and longer oak-ageing in the older vintages, to a much more fruit-driven style in the most recent vintage.
Although Bonarda is certainly a grape variety that best suits being consumed young, there’s potential to age it for a few years and in good vintages it can stand up remarkably well with time.
Nieto Senetiner Limited Edition Bonarda 2000
This wine is almost 20 years old and shows development in the bottle with black olive notes, liquid smoke and cigar tobacco. There are still tannins present from the oak-ageing, and warm, dried fruit notes.
Nieto Senetiner Limited Edition Bonarda 2004
This vintage shows much more depth of fruit character, with rich and sweet red fruit notes. 2004 was a warmer vintage and this wine reflects that with smooth and ripe tannins.
Nieto Senetiner Limited Edition Bonarda 2005
This was my favourite wine of the older vintages and it shows some appealing graphite notes with a bit of spice. Slightly more savoury and cooler fruit expression.
Nieto Senetiner Limited Edition Bonarda 2009
A richer style of Bonarda with chocolate, coffee and mocha notes from intense barrel toast. Dense and rich fruit with notes of dark plum.
Nieto Senetiner Limited Edition Bonarda 2017
This is the current release and shows a very different approach to the winemaking with a much fresher style of wine. 2017 was a cooler vintage, and the wine has spice, dark fresh fruit and some attractive floral notes.
Nieto Senitiner single vineyard Bonarda series
These three newly released single-vineyard Bonarda wines show three different vineyards around Mendoza. Each wine is made in the same way in the winery, spending 8 months in oak.
Nieto Senetiner Jocoli Lavalle Bonarda 2018
Lavalle is the hottest region of Mendoza and has very sandy and saline soils. These vines were planted in 1994 and trained high on a parral (pergola). This is the most aromatically expressive, or at least the most open at the moment, with red fruit aromas and some light floral notes. On the palate the wine expresses plush fruit but also picks up some of the barrel spice.
Nieto Senetiner Agrelo Luján Bonarda 2018
This older vineyard in Luján de Cuyo was planted in 1974 and parral-trained on loam soils in a vineyard that is located over 1,000 metres above sea level. The wine displays darker plum fruit notes with rich fruit concentration and plush fruit on the palate too. It is more concentrated than the Lavalle wine but less open aromatically.
Nieto Senetiner Cordon del Plata Tupungato Bonarda 2018
Coming from vineyards in Tupungato at 1,150 metres above sea level, planted on sandy soils and also parral-trained. This wine has a bit more graphite on the nose and is more mineral and savoury, although there is also fresh red fruit. This wine has the longest mouthfeel out of the Bonarda trilogy and the better potential for ageing, although it is ready to drink now with smooth and integrated tannins.
Nieto Senetiner Brut Nature
Just over 1,100 bottles of this sparkling Blanc de Noir Bonarda were produced, which is a shame because this is a great example of the potential for Bonarda as a more serious sparkling wine. After a year on the lees it has picked up developed pastry notes which combine with the red fruit aromas of the Bonarda (imagine plum strudel!) Dry but aromatic on the palate with persistent bubbles.
