Olive oil in Chile is catching on. Back in 2000, Chileans would only consume 65 grams per person a year and 70% of that was imported olive oil. Today, however, Chileans consume some 650 grams per person and over 90% of that is Chilean olive oil. Now, that’s nothing compared to the Greeks, who consume some 21 kilos per person, but it’s still a significant change and shows not only the increased consumption of olive oil but the increasing quality of local olive oil.
I sat down with Carlos Diaz Guerrero from Diaz Guerrero to learn about his olive oil production in Alto Colchagua and why this region creates a perfect climate for high-quality olive oil in Chile. What makes it good for olive oil (and grapevines) actually makes it rather difficult for other crops. “People always said this was terrible land because it was too cold at night, too hot during the day and had poor, infertile soils,” Carlos explains about the estate his grandfather bought in 1952. Those conditions were, however, excellent for growing vines and olive trees. “We thought about planting vines but at the time there was a price drop in grape value and instead we planted olive trees.”
Their orchard started with just four hectares and, once they saw the trees succeed, that soon grew to 45 hectares and a mill for making their own olive oil. Since then they have studied olive oil in Italy, taken home major trophies at international competitions and become one of the most popular oils on the tables of Chile’s top chefs.
Why Alto Colchagua is a top terroir for olive oil in Chile
So, what makes Alto Colchagua a top region for olive oil? It comes down to the soil and climate. The stony clay-loam soil is good for olive trees (which prefer well-drained soils) and the climate has temperature extremes which creates more intense oils: “The thermal amplitude at this altitude (570m) is incredibly wide here in the summer and that gives you aromas, flavours and antioxidants,” explains Carlos. To put it into context, Carlos says the average antioxidant levels in olive oil are 300ppm of total polyphenols, but the olive oil in Alto Colchagua has 680ppm.
The cooler climate also means that the ripening process in Alto Colchagua is much slower than some other parts in Chile, which gives them more of the green flavours (part of the character of Diaz Guerrero), a bigger window for choosing the harvest date and no risk of over-ripening the fruit. Frost can be an issue, but hasn’t been one for the last few years.
Another characteristic of Alto Colchagua is that they are above the fog line, so they always have sunshine, which also gives them a very dry climate, reducing any disease pressure (for the olive trees and vineyards too). The marked seasonal differences in Alto Colchagua also gives the trees a resting period during the cold winter.
A taste of Alto Colchagua olive oils
Diaz Guerrero Classic Blend 2018
A blend of Arbequina, Picual, Frantoio and Leccino, this is their number one product and it is a bright olive oil with aromas of freshly cut grass and almond skin. On the palate, it has fruity notes backed by spice and a long but clean finish.
Diaz Guerrero Picual 2018
This single-variety olive oil smells like a woodland forest filled with fresh mint and lemon balm. On the palate it is aromatic with fresh herbs and citrus notes, smooth with a little spice on the finish. One for marinades for meat.
Diaz Guerrero Arbequina 2018
This single-vineyard oil shows green apple and green hazelnuts on the nose, but has artichoke on the palate. A very smooth olive oil and one for drizzling over fresh salads with mozzarella and roasted vegetables.
Olive oil tasting tips with Carlos Diaz Guerrero
- Taste olive oil at 28 C
- Buy olive oil as close to its press date as possible; the younger the olive oil, the better it will taste
- Don’t judge an olive oil by its colour
- After appreciating the aromas, take a sip and a short, sharp inhale to move the olive oil around the mouth
You can find Diaz Guerrero in hotels and restaurants in Chile, or order directly from Carlos at www.diazguerrero.cl
My olive oil tasting was organised by Tumuñan Lodge, which organises wine, gastronomy and outdoors experiences in Alto Colchagua for its guests at the countryside lodge.